We’re continuing to venture out to numerous Western European countries, traveling by high-speed trains and staying primarily in cities. From Amsterdam, we have come to Berlin. We’re staying in Mitte, a neighborhood in what was once East Berlin.
Once we figured out how to find a transit stop (it’s not nearly as obvious as in other cities), we’ve gotten a lot of use out of our 7-day passes. On our first day, we rode the #100 bus around the city to get an overview. It was a nice sunny day, and Berliners were out enjoying it.
On May 1, Germany observes Labor Day with demonstrations and most businesses are closed. We spent the better part of that day on a “Discover Berlin” walking tour. We learned lots of history, and realized that, because of both the destruction during WWII and the decay that ensued during the time that it was divided by the Wall, Berlin is really a ‘new’ city. The architecture, except for the buildings left from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, is uninspired…blocky, heavy, and just pretty boring.
But some Berliners have figured out how to dress up a boring building!
Major sights in Berlin include a number of museums and memorials related to the Nazi atrocities during WWII. I’m impressed with how straightforwardly these are named – Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe and Monument to the Sinti and Roma Victims of National Socialism rather than calling them Holocaust Memorials. Both of these are abstract representations and quite moving.
Then there is a museum built on the site of what was once the nerve center for the Gestapo and the SS, called Topography of Terror. This museum – adjacent to a remnant of the Berlin Wall – focuses on the perpetrators of the Nazi terror and is chilling to go through.
After the terror imposed by the Nazis, Berliners suffered a second round of horrors when the Soviets occupied the East and divided the city. Imagine living in a city where drastic measures were taken by the government to keep people IN! A park has been built near a section of the wall in what is referred to as the ‘death zone’- the area between the inner and outer walls that was guarded 24/7, and those trying to escape to West Berlin were shot on sight.
This was written on the inside of the death zone…
Pictures of some who died trying to reach the West…
There is a double strip of cobblestones that runs through the city exactly where the wall stood, so you’re always reminded of the price of freedom.
But Berlin is not all doom and gloom. It is filled with young people who know how to have a good time. Look at this novel way of touring the city…pedaling away with a beer!
One afternoon, while walking in our neighborhood, I came across a lively swing dance party in a nearby garden. So I grabbed a beer and watched some great dancers.
And one Thursday evening, we went to the Markthalle Neun, where you could get almost any kind of food you wanted, accompanied by lots of beer and, surprisingly, good New Zealand wine!
We made a day trip to Potsdam (about an hour outside of Berlin). Best known for the conference following WWII where the fate of Germany was decided, it is also home to two pretty fabulous palaces built between 1745 and 1747 by Frederick the Great, Sanssouci and the New Palace. One of the most unusual features of the super-Rococo Sanssouci is a large room decorated completely with shells depicting sea creatures.
The floors were equally remarkable. Look at this flower inlay…
Despite the continuing chill in the air, Berlin has some of the largest chestnut trees I’ve ever seen and they were all in full bloom just for us!
Next stop Prague…
wonderful description, we’ll think of you when we go, thanks
Dear Kathy,
your pictures of Berlin are absolutely fantastic .
I was particularly interested since my mother was born in Berlin and the first time I was in Berlin was in 1951 right after the war visiting my grandmother who was there through all the horror before the Berlin wall was Built.
After my father retired from the University of Kentucky my parents spent 10 years living in Berlin as a professor at the free University of Berlin at which time John and I also visited on several occasions.
Your descriptions and again photographs are just plain awesome. Thank you again for sharing your incredible journey. At present my grandson is in Prague studying at the Carl University for his semester abroad.
I so look forward to your next report. stay well and keep traveling.
Sending my love,
Marion
Pretty sure Portland has one of those beer/bike thingys too.
Danke:
For the great tour of Berlin with the marvelous pictures. We were only overnight overnight and except for a brief tour, I don’t think we got much more than 5oo yards from Checkpoint Charlie. You are probably in Prague by now, one of my all time great cities to visit. Enjoy.
Auf Wiedersehen